One of Nepal's first electrified towns
Khokana was lit with electricity back in 1911, during the rule of Prime Minister Chandra Shumsher — before most of the country had ever seen an electric lamp.
Know My Village
A living museum of Newari life on the southern rim of the Kathmandu Valley — where mustard oil has been hand-pressed for five centuries, ducks paddle the village ponds, and the goddess Rudrayani rides her chariot while the rest of Nepal celebrates Dashain.
Khokana sits about 8 kilometres south of Kathmandu in the Lalitpur district, on a small plateau above the Bagmati river at the quiet southern edge of the valley. It is a compact settlement of around 5,000 people, almost entirely from the indigenous Newar community, whose stone-paved main street, tiered temple, and communal courtyards still follow the pattern laid down in the Malla era. Its twin heritage village, Bungamati — birthplace of the rain god Rato Machhindranath — is a short walk across the fields.
Khokana was lit with electricity back in 1911, during the rule of Prime Minister Chandra Shumsher — before most of the country had ever seen an electric lamp.
In 1996 Khokana was nominated for UNESCO World Heritage listing as a vernacular village and a living example of mustard-oil industrial heritage.
Newar families here have hand-pressed mustard oil for more than 500 years — seeds are roasted over open hearths and crushed under heavy wooden beams, just as they always were.
By tradition, villagers don't raise chickens. Ducks are the household bird of Khokana, and you'll see them paddling around the village ponds.
While the rest of Nepal celebrates its biggest festival, Khokana holds its own — the nine-day Sikali Jatra in honour of the goddess Rudrayani.
The name Khokana is said to come from the Newari word khona — "telling while weeping" — one of many legends woven into the village's long history.
Khokana's defining festival begins on Ghatasthapana (the first day of Dashain elsewhere) and runs for nine days. Eight unmarried boys perform secret Tantric rituals at the Sikali temple; on the fifth day the goddess Rudrayani is carried on a wooden chariot in the Khat Jatra; and on the sixth, sixteen dancers in the masks of deities — Bhairav, Kumari, Ganesh, Chamunda Kali and more — parade through the village with 46 musicians. It ends with the idol's reinstatement and a communal feast.
A celebration of everything that makes the village unique — Dhime drum and Devi dances, traditional Newari food, and demonstrations of the centuries-old mustard-oil pressing craft.
The towering chariot of the valley's rain god begins its months-long journey from neighbouring Bungamati — Machhindranath's birthplace — and the whole area, Khokana included, joins one of Nepal's greatest chariot festivals.
On National Paddy Day the fields around Khokana fill with song, mud, and dhime drums as families transplant rice seedlings to welcome the monsoon. Visitors are welcome to roll up their trousers and join in.
Festival dates follow the Nepali lunar calendar, so they shift a little each year.
Step into a working mill and watch seeds roasted over an open hearth, then crushed under massive wooden beams — and take home a bottle of Khokana's famous cold-pressed oil.
The three-tiered pagoda of the harvest goddess rises at the centre of the village square beside the historic De Pukhu pond — visible from nearly every lane in the village.
Stone-paved lanes lined with carved windows, grain drying in the sun, women spinning wool in doorways — everyday life here is the attraction.
Try bara, chatamari, and choila the way they're made in Newar kitchens, washed down with home-brewed aila if you're brave.
Rice terraces glow green in the monsoon and the mustard fields turn gold in winter — the walk between them is the valley at its calmest.
Khokana's twin heritage village is a short walk away — home of Rato Machhindranath and a community of master woodcarvers.
The valley warms up, courtyards fill with festivities, and the fields are prepared for the season ahead.
The rain god's chariot sets out from neighbouring Bungamati, drawing crowds from across the valley.
Rice-planting season peaks on Asar 15 — mud, songs, and dhime drums in the paddies around the village.
The village opens its doors with Newari dance, food, and mustard-oil demonstrations.
Nine days of Tantric ritual, chariot processions, and masked deity dances — Khokana's answer to Dashain.
Rice is cut and dried in the square as the festival of lights brings oil lamps to every carved window.
The fields bloom gold and the wooden mills run — roasting, crushing, and pressing the seeds into Khokana's famous oil.